The best medium-size, cluster tomato variety for the overwinter season
- Transplanting date: from the beginning of September
- Optimal density: 2 plants/m2 = 20000/Ha
- Strong and open plant
- Healthy foliage
- High yield
- Very firm fruits
- 130-160 gr.
- Dark red shiny fruits
- Very good shelf life on the vine
- HR Resistances: Fol (Races 1,2), ToMv, For, Ff
- IR Resistances: Mi, Mj, TYLCV
Growing Olympicus Cluster tomatoes
High yields with optimal fruit size of 130-160 gr., growing 2 plants per square meter, yield 20,000 per Hectare.
The optimal transplanting date is from the beginning of September.
It is best to prune to 5-6 fruits / cluster. This will maintain high quality fruits and very high yield.
Irrigation must take into account the soil’s structure (sandy or heavy or in between), the growing stage, and the weather (hot or cold).
After transplanting, the grower should insure good absorption of the seedlings. 10 days later, the grower must halt irrigation for few days in order to compel the roots to search for water. This will increase the volume of the roots, which will consequently improve the plant’s stability.
Sandy soil needs 1-2 irrigation cycles per day, while in the case of heavy soil irrigation can be performed once in 3-4 days.
In the winter season, during the picking stage, tomatoes needs 10-30 m3/day/Ha, but in the hot season this quantity can increase to 50-60m3/day/Ha.
The Olympicus plant is strong and vigorous. The grower must be alert to irrigation and fertilization: in the first three weeks, the required fertilizer is 20:20:20 + Me of N:P:K or a similar fertilizer, at a quantity of 1-1.5 Kg/day/Ha. In week 4, the fertilizer application should be changed to a ratio of 2:1:3, N:P:K, in the beginning 2-2.5 kg N/Day/Ha. The quantity will increase until it reaches about 4 kg/day/Ha. This ratio of 2:1:3 will ensure a balanced vigorous plant, high quality fruits with minimum dropping fruits, fresh green part of the cluster.
Good ventilation is necessary to reduce humidity, which is most important in order to prevent foliage and fruits from Phytophthora infestans, Stemphllium and Botrytis. If you identify excess plant vigor, reduce the fertilizer quantity and remove all the yellow leaves, especially between the two rows. This will result in better ventilation, less humidity and fewer diseases in the GH. In the case of initial Botrytis infection, first remove the infected parts, fruits or leaves, collect all the fallen infected fruits into plastic bags and throw away. Finally, spray a fungicide type that is permitted for this growing stage. In case of an infected stem, you must brush the part with concentrated fungicide to cover the infected part.
Olympicus has many resistances, including Nematodes, but in the late spring and summer period, the soil temperature rises to 27C, and the resistance of all the varieties breaks down. At this stage, you should treat the plants with Nematocide that is adapted to the growing stage.
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